Morocco’s preserved lemons, often an ingredient in their famed tajines, were once considered an exotic foodstuff here.   Lately, though, they’ve been turning up in less ethnic recipes in both food magazines and cook books.  If you want to try such a recipe, you can probably find preserved lemons on the shelves of a good gourmet shop, but it’s really easy to make them yourself if you have the month it takes for proper aging. 

Traditionally the lemons are prepared by quartering them lengthwise, slicing almost to the bottom while being careful to leave the segments attached at the stem end.  Spread the quarters apart a little and salt the interior well then press the lemon shut.  Pack the lemons tightly in a glass jar, cover them with warm water, close tightly and allow to age.  In Morocco they often weigh them down with a clean rock before closing the jar, but unless you’re determined to be totally authentic, I think you can skip this step.  When you’re ready to use the lemons, scrape out and discard the insides and use the shell.

Since I’m a great proponent of the “looks are everything” school, I often add some herbs to the jar for eye appeal as well as enhanced flavor.  Tucking a few bay leaves, a piece of cinnamon, a few cloves and peppercorns into the jar as you’re packing the lemons produces a tasty condiment to eat with meats… or slice the lemons and sprinkle with mint and pepper for a spirited nibble with a dry martini.

Since the lemons don’t need to be refrigerated, pack them in a handsome jar for an attractive kitchen decoration or a great gift for a foodie friend. If you start now, they’ll be just about ready at Christmas – and totally ready by the time your friend gets around to opening them.

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© photos Chris Mead, text Emelie Tolley